Goodman Heat Pump Not Heating: Causes, Fixes & Costs
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Goodman heat pump not heating: what it means
“Not heating” is a symptom, not a numbered code. Your Goodman heat pump either does not run in heat mode, runs but delivers cool air, or cannot keep the house at the thermostat setting.
A heat pump makes heat by running refrigerant in reverse through a reversing valve. Because of that, heating faults often trace back to:
- The thermostat’s O/B reversing-valve signal
- The reversing valve or its solenoid
- The defrost system
- The refrigerant charge
- The compressor circuit
Some symptoms are normal and are not faults:
- Mild air temperature. Heat pump air commonly feels lukewarm (about 85–100°F at the register).
- Defrost cycles. These briefly stop the outdoor fan and send cooler air indoors.
- Longer run times in very cold weather. Capacity drops as outdoor temperatures fall.
Some Goodman models have a diagnostic LED on the outdoor control board, and communicating systems may show fault codes at the thermostat. Code meanings and whether the unit resets on its own vary by board. Many boards retry automatically after an anti-short-cycle delay, while some lockouts hold until power is cycled.
Severity is “pro” because nearly every real cause sits inside the cabinet or the refrigerant circuit.
Goodman heat pump not heating: common causes, ranked by probability
- Thermostat setup or wiring. The thermostat may be in the wrong mode or configured for a conventional system instead of a heat pump. The O/B reversing-valve setting may be wrong, which is common after a thermostat replacement. Goodman heat pumps energize the reversing valve in cooling (O), so a thermostat set to “B” will heat when asked to cool and cool when asked to heat.
- Normal defrost or a defrost-system fault. A stuck defrost cycle, failed defrost thermostat or sensor, or defrost control board fault can leave the outdoor coil iced over. An iced coil cannot pull heat from outdoor air.
- Restricted airflow. A clogged filter, closed registers or a dirty indoor coil can reduce output and trip high-pressure protection in heat mode.
- Low refrigerant charge (leak). The unit runs constantly with weak heat, and the coil may ice unevenly.
- Reversing valve or solenoid coil failure. The valve sticks in cooling position, so the unit blows cold air in heat mode even though the compressor runs.
- Failed capacitor or contactor. The outdoor fan or compressor will not start, or the unit hums.
- Compressor problems. These include tripped internal overload, failed windings or a mechanical failure.
- Auxiliary/backup heat not working. In very cold weather a heat pump relies on heat strips. A failed strip, sequencer, or kit breaker, or an incorrect outdoor-temperature lockout setting, leaves the house cold.
How to fix Goodman heat pump not heating: safe checks first
- Thermostat: Confirm it is set to HEAT, not COOL, AUTO or OFF, and that the setpoint is a few degrees above room temperature.
- Replace the batteries if the display is dim or blank.
- If you recently installed a new thermostat, check that its system type is set to “heat pump.”
- Check the reversing-valve setting in its menu. Goodman typically uses O (energized in cool). Do not touch any wiring.
- Air filter: Replace it if it is dirty. Then open all supply registers and clear any blocked return grilles.
- Breakers and switches: Check the main panel for both the indoor air handler and outdoor unit breakers, plus the outdoor disconnect.
- You may reset a tripped breaker once.
- If it trips again, leave it off and call a pro.
- Some systems have a separate breaker for the heat strips. Check that one too.
- Outdoor unit: Clear snow, leaves and debris from around and on top of it.
- Watch it for 15 minutes. Steam and a stopped fan during a short defrost are normal.
- Do not chip or pound ice off the coil. You can easily puncture refrigerant tubing.
- Heavy ice that does not clear after a defrost cycle is a technician call.
- Condensate: Check that the indoor condensate drain and pan are not overflowing. Some air handlers have a float switch that shuts the system off when the pan is full.
- One power reset: If the unit seems dead or locked out, switch power off at the breaker or disconnect for 5 minutes, then restore it one time. If heat does not return, stop and call.
- Emergency heat: Use EM HEAT to keep the house warm while you wait for service.
How a technician will diagnose it
A qualified tech should typically:
- Verify thermostat configuration and wiring, including O/B, Y, W2 and E.
- Confirm 24V calls are reaching the outdoor unit and air handler.
- Read any fault LED on the outdoor control board and compare it to the model’s diagnostic chart.
- Measure supply-to-return temperature split in heat mode.
- Check the contactor, capacitor (µF test) and compressor amperage.
- Check the reversing valve:
- Confirm 24V at the solenoid in cooling.
- Feel or measure line temperatures to see whether the valve shifts.
- Test the defrost sensor or thermostat and the defrost board. Many Goodman boards have test pins to force a defrost.
- Connect gauges and check charge using the manufacturer’s heating or charging procedures. A low charge means leak search and repair before recharging.
- Inspect heat strips, sequencers or relays, and the strip breakers.
Be wary of a quote that adds refrigerant without a leak check. Also question a compressor or reversing valve replacement quoted without documented electrical and pressure readings.
Symptom, cause and what to do
| Symptom | Likely cause | DIY action | Technician job |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cold air in heat mode, outdoor unit running | Thermostat O/B setting or reversing valve stuck | Verify HEAT mode and heat-pump/O setting | Test solenoid coil, replace coil or reversing valve |
| Outdoor unit iced solid | Defrost sensor/board fault, low charge, airflow | Clear debris; wait one defrost cycle; use EM HEAT | Test defrost controls, check charge |
| Fan stops, steam outside, then resumes | Normal defrost | None | None |
| Outdoor unit silent, indoor fan runs | Tripped breaker, contactor, capacitor, control fault | Check breaker/disconnect, one reset | Test and replace contactor/capacitor, diagnose board |
| Outdoor unit hums but won’t start | Capacitor or compressor | Shut off power, call | Capacitor test/replacement, compressor diagnosis |
| Runs constantly, weak heat | Low refrigerant, dirty filter or coil, very cold weather | Replace filter, open registers | Leak search, coil cleaning, charge check |
| Fine in mild weather, cold below ~30°F | Backup heat strips or lockout setting | Check strip breaker | Test strips, sequencers, thermostat staging |
| Whole system shuts off, water in pan | Condensate float switch | Clear visible drain line | Clean drain/trap, check pump |
Goodman heat pump not heating repair cost
Typical US costs including labor:
| Repair | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Thermostat reconfiguration or rewire (service call) | $100–$250 |
| New heat-pump thermostat, installed | $150–$450 |
| Run capacitor | $150–$400 |
| Contactor | $150–$350 |
| Defrost sensor or thermostat | $150–$350 |
| Defrost control board | $300–$700 |
| Reversing valve solenoid coil | $150–$400 |
| Reversing valve replacement (brazing, evacuation, recharge) | $1,000–$2,500 |
| Leak search and repair, plus R-410A or R-32/R-454B recharge | $300–$1,500+ (varies by leak location and refrigerant) |
| Heat strip element or sequencer | $200–$600 |
| Compressor replacement | $1,800–$4,000+ |
Labor coverage varies, so check whether your Goodman parts warranty is still active. Many units carry a 10-year registered parts warranty.
Related codes
- Goodman AC Running But Not Cooling: Causes & Costs
- Goodman Furnace Blowing Cold Air: Causes & Fixes (dual-fuel systems)
- Goodman Furnace Runs Constantly But Not Enough Heat
- Goodman Furnace Won’t Turn On: Causes, Fixes & Costs
- Goodman Furnace Short Cycling: Causes, Fixes & Costs
Parts & tools for this fix
- Replacement air filter (match your filter size)
- AA or AAA thermostat batteries
- Heat-pump-compatible programmable thermostat
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Frequently asked questions
Why is my Goodman heat pump blowing cool air in heat mode?
Heat pump air often feels cooler than furnace air, usually 85–100°F at the register. Air that feels truly cold can mean the unit is running in defrost or that the reversing valve or thermostat wiring is keeping it in cooling mode. If the air stays cold after a defrost cycle ends, call a technician.
Is it normal for my heat pump to stop heating and steam outside?
Yes. During defrost, the outdoor fan stops, the unit may steam or whoosh, and the indoor air may feel cool for a few minutes. Goodman defrost cycles normally run for up to about 10 minutes. Constant defrosting, or a unit encased in ice, is not normal.
Does a Goodman heat pump reset itself after a fault?
It depends on the model and control board. Many boards retry automatically after a time delay, but some protective lockouts hold until power is cycled. If a single power reset at the breaker does not restore heat, stop resetting it and call a technician.
Should I use emergency heat if my heat pump stops heating?
Emergency heat (EM HEAT) runs only the backup electric strips or furnace, so it can keep the house warm while you wait for service. It costs much more to run than the heat pump, so use it only as a temporary measure.