Goodman Heat Pump Runs Constantly: Causes, Fixes & Costs
Applies to: Goodman split heat pumps (GSZ, GSZB, GSZC, GSZV9, DSZC, SSZ series) with standard 24V thermostats or communicating controls. ComfortBridge communicating systems apply to specific models (for example, GSZC18 and DSZC18), and their diagnostics are read through the CoolCloud app or the outdoor control board's display. Single-stage, two-stage and variable-speed units behave differently, and long run times are normal on two-stage and inverter models.
Typical repair cost: $0 DIY – $150–$450 for a contactor or charge check – $1,200–$3,500 for major parts such as a coil or compressor — compare free local quotes
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Goodman heat pump runs constantly: what it means
“Runs constantly” is a symptom, not a fault code. Goodman heat pumps do not flash a dedicated code for long run times.
It shows up in one of two forms, and they have different causes:
- The unit runs but never reaches the setpoint. The system can’t move enough heat. Common reasons are weather beyond its capacity, airflow restriction, dirty coils, a low refrigerant charge, or duct losses.
- The unit runs even after the setpoint is reached or the thermostat is off. Something is holding the call on. The usual suspects are a welded (stuck-closed) contactor, a shorted thermostat wire, or a thermostat fault.
Model behavior varies:
- Two-stage and variable-speed models (GSZC, DSZC, the GSZV9 inverter series, and possibly some GSZB models; check your model’s specifications) are designed for long, low-capacity run cycles. Continuous running can be normal on these.
- Single-stage models (most GSZ and SSZ units) should cycle off in mild weather.
- ComfortBridge communicating systems (specific models such as the GSZC18 and DSZC18) may log faults on the outdoor board even when the indoor thermostat shows nothing. These diagnostics are read through the CoolCloud app or the outdoor board’s display.
There is no lockout to reset for this symptom.
If the problem is mainly heat-strip use, see the related page Goodman Heat Pump Aux Heat On Constantly.
Goodman heat pump runs constantly: common causes, ranked by probability
- Thermostat setting or setup.
- The fan is set to ON instead of AUTO. The blower runs nonstop, but the compressor does not.
- The setpoint is unrealistic.
- The thermostat is configured with the wrong heat pump settings (O/B reversing valve setting).
- Outdoor temperature beyond the balance point. In deep cold or extreme heat, a correctly sized heat pump may run continuously. This is normal, not a fault.
- Dirty air filter or restricted airflow. Low airflow cuts capacity, so the unit runs longer to keep up. Closed registers do the same.
- Dirty outdoor or indoor coil. Dirt, cottonwood or grass clippings on the outdoor coil, or a dirty evaporator coil indoors, reduce heat transfer.
- Low refrigerant charge from a leak. Goodman coils, including some aluminum evaporator coils, can develop leaks. Typical signs are reduced capacity and long run times.
- Stuck-closed (welded) contactor. The outdoor unit keeps running even with no call from the thermostat. This is common on older units.
- Shorted or damaged thermostat wiring. A short between R and Y (for example, from wire chewed or cut near the outdoor unit) keeps the compressor energized.
- Duct leaks or poor insulation. Conditioned air is lost to the attic or crawlspace.
- Reversing valve not fully shifting, or a weak compressor. These reduce capacity. They are less common and are technician diagnoses.
- Undersized equipment. If the unit has always run nonstop, a load calculation (Manual J) may show the system is too small for the house.
How to fix Goodman heat pump runs constantly: safe checks first
- Thermostat:
- Confirm the mode is set to HEAT or COOL as intended and the fan is set to AUTO.
- Set the temperature 2–3°F past the current room temperature and see whether the system cycles off once it gets there.
- Replace the batteries if the display is dim.
- Thermostat off test: Turn the thermostat to OFF and wait 5 minutes.
- If the outdoor unit keeps running, switch it off at the outdoor disconnect or breaker. Do not leave it running, and call a technician (likely a contactor or wiring fault).
- Air filter: Replace the filter if it is dirty. Check it monthly during heavy-use seasons.
- Vents and registers: Open all supply registers. Make sure return grilles are not blocked by furniture or rugs.
- Outdoor unit:
- Look at the coil from outside. Clear leaves, snow and debris from around the unit, keeping about 2 feet of clearance.
- In cooling season or above-freezing weather only, gently hose loose dirt off the fins from outside, with the power off at the disconnect. Do not hose the coil in heating season when temperatures are near or below freezing, because water on the coil can freeze.
- Do not open the cabinet.
- Condensate line: In cooling mode, make sure the drain is flowing and the pan is not full. A tripped float switch causes shutdowns rather than nonstop running, but it is worth checking.
- Panels: Confirm the indoor unit’s access panels are fully seated.
- Compare against the weather: In extreme temperatures, check whether the house is holding temperature. If it is, long run times are expected.
How a technician will diagnose it
A technician will typically work through these checks:
- Verify the call.
- Measure 24V at the outdoor unit’s Y terminal with the thermostat satisfied.
- Voltage present means a thermostat or wiring fault. No voltage with the unit still running means a welded contactor.
- Inspect the contactor for pitted or welded contacts, and replace it if needed.
- Check airflow:
- Static pressure
- Blower speed setting
- Filter and evaporator coil condition
- Check the refrigerant charge with gauges or probes. They will measure superheat and subcooling against the unit’s charging chart/label, which is usually inside the access panel or in the installation manual.
- Find the leak if the charge is low. Methods include an electronic detector, bubble solution, or a nitrogen pressure test. Leak repair comes before any recharge.
- Measure temperature split across the indoor coil.
- Cooling is typically about 16–22°F.
- Heating varies with outdoor temperature.
- Check the reversing valve and compressor:
- Compressor amp draw
- Reversing valve operation
- Pressures in both modes
- Review ComfortBridge fault history on communicating models, through the CoolCloud app or the outdoor board’s display.
- Evaluate ducts and sizing. This may include a duct leakage check or a Manual J load calculation if the unit has always struggled.
Be wary of a quote that recommends “topping off” refrigerant without mentioning a leak search. Also be wary of replacing the system before airflow and charge have been verified.
Symptom, cause and what to do
| Symptom | Likely cause | DIY action | Technician job |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blower runs nonstop, outdoor unit cycles normally | Fan set to ON | Set the fan to AUTO | None needed |
| Outdoor unit runs with the thermostat OFF | Welded contactor or shorted wire | Shut off the outdoor disconnect or breaker | Replace the contactor; repair the wiring |
| Runs nonstop and never reaches setpoint, weak airflow | Dirty filter or blocked returns | Replace the filter; open registers | Check static pressure and blower setup; clean the evaporator coil |
| Runs nonstop, outdoor coil visibly dirty | Fouled condenser coil | Clear debris; in above-freezing weather only, gently hose off from outside, power off | Chemical coil cleaning |
| Runs nonstop in cooling mode, warm air from vents, ice on the refrigerant line | Low refrigerant from a leak | Turn off the system if ice forms | Leak search, repair and charge |
| Runs nonstop in heating mode, cool air from vents | Low refrigerant from a leak | Call a technician (frost on the outdoor coil between defrosts is normal in heating; see Goodman Heat Pump Ice on Outdoor Unit) | Leak search, repair and charge |
| Runs nonstop only in extreme cold or heat, house comfortable | Normal capacity limit | Accept it, or lower or raise the setpoint slightly | Nothing, unless the home can’t hold temperature |
| Runs nonstop, some rooms hot or cold | Duct leaks or poor insulation | Check that visible registers are open | Seal and insulate ducts |
| Always ran nonstop since installation | Undersized system | None | Manual J load calculation; equipment review |
| Runs nonstop with low output in one mode only | Reversing valve problem | None | Diagnose and replace the valve |
Goodman heat pump runs constantly repair cost
These are typical US ranges, installed, including labor:
| Item | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Filter, thermostat settings, battery replacement | $0–$40 |
| Service call or diagnostic | $90–$200 |
| Contactor replacement | $150–$350 |
| Thermostat wiring repair | $120–$300 |
| New heat-pump-compatible thermostat, installed | $150–$450 |
| Coil cleaning, outdoor and/or indoor | $100–$400 |
| Leak search | $200–$500 |
| Refrigerant recharge, R-410A (older units) or R-32 (2025+ units) | $200–$800, depending on pounds needed; pricing varies by refrigerant |
| Evaporator coil replacement | $1,200–$2,800 (parts may be covered under Goodman’s 10-year parts warranty if the unit was registered) |
| Reversing valve replacement | $900–$2,000 |
| Compressor replacement | $1,800–$3,500 |
| Duct sealing | $300–$2,000+ |
Check your warranty before approving major parts. Goodman parts warranties typically require online registration within 60 days of installation. Labor is usually not covered.
Related codes
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- Goodman Heat Pump Not Heating: Causes, Fixes & Costs
- Goodman Heat Pump Not Cooling: Causes, Fixes & Costs
- Goodman Heat Pump Short Cycling: Causes, Fixes & Costs
- Goodman Heat Pump Ice on Outdoor Unit: Causes & Fixes
- Goodman Heat Pump Frozen and Not Defrosting: Fixes
- Goodman Heat Pump Flashing Light: Meaning & Fixes
- Goodman AC Running But Not Cooling: Causes & Costs
Parts & tools for this fix
- Replacement air filter (match your size)
- AA/AAA thermostat batteries
- Programmable thermostat compatible with heat pumps
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Frequently asked questions
Is it normal for a Goodman heat pump to run constantly in very cold weather?
Often, yes. Heat pumps lose capacity as outdoor temperatures drop. Below about 25–35°F, many single-stage units run almost nonstop to hold the setpoint, with auxiliary heat helping. If the house holds temperature, long run times alone are not a fault.
My Goodman runs constantly and the house is comfortable. Is something wrong?
Probably not if you have a two-stage or variable-speed model such as the GSZC or DSZC. Those units are designed to run long and slow at low capacity. On a single-stage unit in mild weather, nonstop running is worth a technician check.
The outdoor unit keeps running even with the thermostat off. What does that mean?
That usually points to a contactor stuck closed or a shorted thermostat wire. The compressor can run with no call and may overheat or freeze the coil. Turn the system off at the outdoor disconnect or breaker and call a technician.
Can low refrigerant make a Goodman heat pump run all the time?
Yes. A low charge, which always means a leak, cuts capacity so the unit can't satisfy the thermostat. A technician has to find and repair the leak and then charge by weight or superheat/subcooling. Adding refrigerant without fixing the leak only buys time.
Does a constantly running heat pump raise my electric bill?
It can, especially if auxiliary electric strips are also running. A unit that runs because of a fault, such as a dirty coil, low charge or stuck contactor, wastes energy and adds wear. Fixing the cause usually lowers the bill noticeably.
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